From the Forum – Kegerator Repair Service


Kegerator Repair Service

“I realize that this may be a super specific request, but multiple Google searches didn’t help, so in my darkest hour of need I turn to the good people of Popville! I recently finished building my DIY kegerator and it looks beautiful and runs lovely, just having some issues with foaming. I’ve called a few refrigeration companies, but the fridge itself works great. I will be asking some of my local drinking establishments tonight, but thought that if anyone knew of a company or guy that could help me with my issues (as I’ve attempting to fix it all from the standard “what’s wrong with it” from troubleshooting. Would love to have this good to go for my 4th of July BBQ, but clearly that may be pushing it at this point. Thanks so much for any insight you may have!”

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18 Comment

  • You may already know this, but 2 common issues I’ve had that contributed to foaming issues are temperature and CO2 pressure. Set it to a colder temperature and regulate the CO2 to something like 10 PSI. Use the release valve to let some of the pressure off and let it build back up to 10 PSI or so, that has worked for me.

  • I am not aware of any repair services. Maybe post something in the jobs section on Craigslist?

    Honestly, the online forums should be sufficient for troubling shooting, unless you are (and please don’t take this the wrong way) totally clueless. And if you are totally clueless, you probably don’t need to own a kegerator, because at a minimum you have to regularly take stuff apart (to clean it) and if you can handle that, you should be able to handle a foam issue.

    Foam is caused by a problem with carbonation. There can be two causes here:
    1) Too much CO2 coming from your CO2 cannister
    2) A temperature change in the keg line (which causes degassing due to the ideal gas law)

    #1 is easy to fix by adjusting the CO2 level via the adjustment screw on the gauge. There are also tables online that suggest different CO2 levels for different beers (because it does vary beer to beer)

    #2 is a little more work, but a lot of time what happens is that when the beer line leaves the kegerator to go into the tap tower (i.e. where the beer comes out) that portion of tubing is uninsulated, so the beer in the line warms up (especially in the summer heat) causing de-gassing (foam). This may be especially problematic for the “first beer poured” as that beer has been sitting in the line as isn’t as cold as it could be. The more beer your pour the colder the beer (and the tubing itself) gets, so there should be less foam.

    If your foam decreases the more beer you pour, then #2 is most likely.

    If your foam is the same regardless of how much beer your pour, then check #1.

  • Operating a draught system is all about balance–balancing applied pressure, resistance, carbonation level, & temperature. First off, the ideal temperature to pour draught beer is 38F. You may need to increase/decrease the applied pressure based on the beer you’re serving & the resistance in the system. A good starting pressure is 12 psi, which is pretty standard for a 5 foot beer line. Also, be sure there are not kinks in line or any obstructions. When pouring a beer, be sure to open the faucet completely–if you open it a little bit, it can create turbulence. I recommend checking out the Brewers Association’s Draught Quality Manual. It’s a free download at & it will have more information than you ever cared to know about serving draught beer. For a home kegerator, I’d focus on the Direct Draw section (Chapter 3) along with Chapter 5, which focuses on system balance. There is a troubleshooting section in Chapter 9 that has specific info about what do with foamy beer in a direct draw system. Best of luck!

    • The ideal temperature to pour is based on the style of beer. A stout at 38* would be too cold.

      Check here for info about proper draft line lengths:

      • No, the ideal temperature to *serve* is based on the style, but the ideal temperature to pour is between 34-38F. You can certainly vary the storage (aka pouring) temperature based on the style (like ChurchKey does for example), but it becomes a nightmare to get the system to pour correctly. Best practice is to maintain the system at 38–the beer will warm up as soon as it hits the glass & will settle in the low to mid 40s by the time it reaches a customer….though obviously for a home system, the “customer” is the one pouring the beer. Long story short, the beer will warm up quickly in the glass.

  • Sodibar Systems in Hyattsville

  • I Dont Get It

    Don’t know how to fix it but good job on the exterior!

  • How long is the beer line going from the ball lock (or pinlock) keg disconnet fitting to the faucet and what is your regulator pressure?

    Sounds like a line balance issue that could easily be fixed with a longer or shorter line or a higher or lower pressure

    Draft Tech
    Caustic Solutions LLC
    Washington DC

    • +1
      I doubt that the issue is temp. It’s also unlikely that the keg is overcarbed since you’re pouring a commercial keg. Once I have a properly carbed keg, I generally turn the PSI way down to serve (around 8PSI). The issue I think you are having is that your draft beer line is too short. Five feet isn’t going to cut it in many systems (although this also depends on tube diameter!). Longer thinner lines will generally allow you to pour higher carbed beers without foaming issues (especially convenient for 3.5-4.0 vol homebrewed saisons).

  • penguins9966

    Original poster here, I should have clarified on what I have done in terms of troubleshooting. I have 5′ lines and have played with the temperature anywhere from 34-40 F with no real differing results. I have varied the PSI from 9-13 (found 10-12 range best) with no real difference. I have done the soapy water test on the lines, swapped out O ring gaskets, etc… So I would say that I have done my due diligence in terms of trying to fix the issue. I appreciate everyone with constructive criticism, just trying to have some lovely draft beer for the 4th! I am testing this all out on oskar blues mama’s little yella pils. Thanks guys! Enjoy you’re 4th!

    • I have 10′ lines in my kegerator. Ridiculous problems with foaming before that.

      Foam happens when the velocity at the faucet is too high. IE the beer is moving too fast when it hits the faucet. Longer lines slow down the beer by introducing friction as the beer travels.

      There is a formula for balancing speed, temperature, pressure, and the desired volume of CO2 (amount of bubbles). Draught beer at home is awesome but kind of a pain. Nice work. it looks great.

      • penguins9966

        Yeah may try the 10′ lines as this seems to be one of the only option that I haven’t tried, especially since it could be a cheap fix. Appreciate the suggestions.

  • If you pour two beers in a row, are both foamy, or just the first?

    With your setup, this is likely not the case, but if the beer in the hose near the faucet is not as cold, it can cause foaming. (This is a common issue is a setup with a draft tower that is not cooled).

    • penguins9966

      Well I only have one keg hooked up currently as I kinda wanted to get the whole set up before purchasing a second keg, but I would imagine they would both come out foamy (I switched to the other tap after having issues) fridge is (and could be even more cooler) if I wanted too; however, I was under the impression that too cool also and add to foaming

      • There are many variables and many here have given good advice you can try. One thing I’ve learned is that although I have a cooled tower, due to various factors, sometimes the first few ounces in the hose get foamy. If you pour beer on top of foam, it will create more foam.

        In these situations, for the first beer of the day, I sometimes pour just an ounce or two in a glass- if its foamy, i dump and rinse, then pour the full pint at full opening (as others have noted), many people only open the faucet a bit, thinking a slower pour will help, but this has the opposite effect.

        Its a bit maddening dialing it all in, but if you have cold fridge, you don’t need a repairman – you just have to play with different variables and eventually you’ll get there.

        There are some great forums on that will provide advice in this area as well. Good luck

      • By the way – I meant two pints from same keg, not two different kegs…

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