Photo by PoPville flickr user yostinator
Read Queenedix’s Eat Wonky critique here.
Despite my love of food trucks, I’m the first to admit that the food, at least in the still-infantile DC truck market, derives more of its appeal from the novelty of being made on a moving tank of propane than it does from balanced seasoning and nuanced flavors. When you’re competing with overdressed $12 salads, reheated Chinese takeout bars, and the ever-popular $5 footlong, it doesn’t take much to provide at least baseline gastronomic satisfaction. To be honest, after last week’s review, I sort of dreaded blowing $25 to taste the entire menu of a new truck, only to determine it wouldn’t be worth eating after a second on the floor.
However, there are a few instances when food truck meals rise above the typical fare to provide a dining experience capable of competing with some of DC’s better restaurants. Every once in a while, you try food that isn’t just a greasy chaser to calm your hangover or a fun Friday “cheat” on your latest weight-loss regiment. Sometimes, you find a truck serving food that is complex, balanced, rich, satisfying, and affordable—a place you return to without guilt because the mere pleasure of experiencing the food again is worth a 20 minute wait in line. I had intended to try something new this week, but noticed a personal favorite, *Takorean*, parked outside my office on Tuesday, and was inspired to bring you my thoughts on a truck I find truly exceptional. Sometimes, you have to set the highest bar to know how good everything else is, and in my opinion, Takorean (and a very small handful of other trucks in DC) set that bar.
After all, any place that makes tofu taste THIS good deserves high accolades.
Takorean excels partly because they offer a small number of options in their very specific niche, and they do these things very well. Start with options of beef, chicken, or tofu, all marinated in a sweet and slightly spicy bulgogi-style sauce. On my first visit to Takorean shortly after it opened, the tofu option was sold out—an early indication of just how good this protein, so often scorned by meat-lovers like myself, is at Takorean. You can add napa slaw or kimchi (a tough decision, as the slaw is crisp and sweet and the kimchi tangy and punchy) and then a smattering of toppings best ordered all together, as “the works.” These include a crema (much like crème fraiche), sriacha hot sauce, and sesame seeds. Everything comes wrapped in a freshly grilled corn tortilla (props for the grill marks to prove it).
Continues after the jump.
The meat alone is a solid baseline of flavor, and each additional ingredient emerges as you eat. The kimchi’s tart, sour, spiciness comes out first, playing against the rich creaminess of the crema and the delayed fire of the sriacha. Every bite was so satisfying, even after eating here repeatedly, that it was hard for me to put down one taco to get to the next. The beef and chicken are never dried out, grilled to a tender perfection. The tofu, in my opinion, is the surprise star—the texture can sometimes be similar to that of a stale marshmallow, but here it is soft, rich, and pillowy. I have found myself ordering it over meat-based options on multiple visits.
I only have two additions that I think would be amazing (although these suggestions are very, very minor). First, I wanted a little more crema and sriacha on my tacos—I love the punch they add. Second, I had a fantasy about how the combo would taste in a crispy taco shell. I’ve been assured that I’m an idiot for deviating from the soft corn tortilla base, but the added crunch sounds a little dreamy. I might have to bring my own next time to see if I’m right. In short, eat at Takorean with my highest endorsement. I’m confident you’ll love it.
Thanks to Sara for sharing. I’ve been getting many messages from folks asking where they can attend one.
Thanks to Andrew for sending this “Caddy El Dorado” from near H Street, NE. Sweet City Ride is made possible by readers like you! Email your finds to [email protected]
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